What You Need to Know About Septic Tank Pumping

August 30th, 2012 Posted in Septic Tank Pumping
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If your home is on a septic system rather than connected to a municipal sewer line, regular septic system maintenance is necessary to avoid problems with your system.  One of the most important maintenance tasks is regular septic tank pumping.  Having your septic tank pumped regularly will help keep your septic system in good working order.

The average cost for septic tank pumping can range anywhere from a hundred to a couple of hundreds of dollars.  However, actual costs to pump a tank will depend on the size, location, and accessibility of the tank including how much digging will be required to gain access to the tank.

In terms of how often septic tanks should be pumped, the size of the tank is an important factor.  An average sized tank should be pumped every three to five years.  It is a good idea to get a specific recommendation for your own tank from a sewer-septic professional.  Unfortunately, there is no way to tell whether a septic tank needs pumping without having it inspected by your plumber or sewer-septic professional.

If you leave you septic tank too long without regular pumping, it can cause serious problems with your septic system such as a clogged drain field.  You may begin to notice problems inside the house such as sewage backups, difficulty flushing toilets, and slow drains.  If you notice any of these problems, have your system checked out by a good sewer septic contractor.  If you set a regular schedule to have your septic tank pumped, this can save you from costly repairs or future problems.

Your septic tank system is a critical component of your home and should be given serious consideration.  Prevention is usually much less expensive than repairs for severe damage.  Don’t wait for your septic system to fail.  Have it inspected and pumped regularly and avoid septic system problems before they even begin.

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Choosing a Backup Sump Pump

August 11th, 2012 Posted in Sump Pumps and Ejector Pumps
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Many knowledgeable homeowners choose to maximize the protection against foundation damage and basement flooding provided by a sump pump system by installing a backup sump pump.  Adding a backup sump pump provides an additional level of insurance against flooding and foundation damage.  In the event of a sump pump failure, the backup sump pump will take over and pump out the water until the primary sump pump can be repaired.

Backup sump pumps are designed to operate without the need for household electricity so they work in the event of a power failure. There are two basic types of backup sump pumps.   One design uses household water pressure to operate while the other design relies on a battery for power.

If access to a water supply line is not a concern, a water powered backup sump pump is an excellent choice.  They need very little maintenance and can run almost indefinitely.  They are not a good choice for homes on a well that use an electric well pump.  In the event of a power failure, there would not be any water pressure to operate the pump. Also, these pumps have to be connected to a pressurized water line.  If there is limited access to nearby plumbing, installation of the water line can be a problem.

If installation of a water powered pump is impractical or too expensive, a battery powered backup pump might be a better choice.  These pumps use a dedicated battery that is kept topped off with a  small battery charger.  There are few installation concerns with these types of pumps, but they unlike water powered pumps, the battery requires regular maintenance.  In addition, they will only run until the battery wears down.

Your sewer septic contractor can help you choose a backup sump pump that is right for your unique situation.

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Backup Sump Pumps For Peace of Mind

August 11th, 2012 Posted in Sump Pumps and Ejector Pumps
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If your basement relies on a sump pump for protection against water intrusion, installing a backup sump pump can provide peace of mind against concerns over a pump failure.  When you only have a single, primary sump pump, any problem or failure can lead to disastrous flooding within minutes.  All it takes is a single problem to stop a sump pump from working properly.  A stuck float, clogged intake, power failure, or plugged discharge line can prevent the primary sump pump from removing the water from your basement.

Unless you are fortunate enough to notice the problem and are able to fix it fast, water can quickly rise and flood your basement.  If you are away from home or simply don’t notice the pump failure, the damage will have been done long before you will have an opportunity to repair the pump.

A backup sump pump can alleviate these concerns.  Your sewer septic contractor can install a battery operated or water powered backup sump pump that will kick in automatically in the event of a primary sump pump failure.  Both types of backup sump pumps are unaffected by power failures.  Water powered sump pumps are powered by household water pressure and battery operated sump pumps depend on a standby battery.

Water powered backup sump pumps are an excellent choice, but can be challenging to install in some basements, especially those with finished ceilings and limited access to water supply lines.  Battery powered backup sump pumps can be installed in almost any basement, but they require some regular maintenance to keep the battery fully charged.

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Septic to Sewer – Making the Conversion Decision

August 2nd, 2012 Posted in Sewer Lines
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Many homeowners whose homes were originally built in an area where there was no municipal sewer service later have an opportunity to hook up to the municipal sewers.  As the local area becomes more developed, sewers and other infrastructure slowly expand into new areas.  In some cases, local ordinances require existing homes to connect to the sewer system, but in most cases the decision is left up to the homeowner.

Septic to sewer conversions can be expensive.  Expect to pay between $5,000 and $10,000 or more to make the conversion.  Most municipal sewer authorities also charge a connection fee although the fee might be waived or reduced for conversions.

Whether it makes sense to convert from a septic system to a sewer system depends on a variety of factors.  Sewer systems have a lot of advantages over septic systems.  For example, a sewer lateral needs very little maintenance and modern PVC or ABS sewer lines are not nearly as susceptible to tree root infiltration as older clay and cast iron sewer lines.  That means that unless the ground shifts or a heavy vehicle drives over the sewer line and crushes it, the sewer lateral should last a very long time with hardly any maintenance.

On the other hand, a septic system needs regular septic tank pumping to stay in good working order.  Also, a leech field can last for decades if properly designed and cared for, but most septic fields need to be replaced after about 20 to 30 years.  Also, you have to be a little more careful about the volume of water and the type of waste material put into a septic system.  Septic systems can suffer from hydraulic overload and are less tolerant of food wastes, household chemicals, and other waste products.

Finally, converting from septic to sewer can increase the value of your home.  Buyers prefer homes with sewer connections and are especially wary of homes with old or failing septic systems.

 

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Trenchless Sewer Line Replacement

August 2nd, 2012 Posted in Sewer Lines
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Replacing your sewer line is an expensive, messy job that usually entails digging a trench through your yard so that the new sewer lateral can be installed.  For many homeowners, the process can cause a significant disruption of their landscaping and in some cases can even mean digging up driveways, sidewalks, and even garages.  Before you start digging, talk to your sewer-septic contractor about your trenchless sewer line repair or replacement options.

New techniques have been developed for repair or replacement of sewer lines with a minimum of destructive digging.  Two popular techniques are pipe bursting and pipe lining.

With pipe bursting, a new pipe is installed by dragging it through the existing sewer pipe.  A pipe bursting head is installed on the leading edge of the new pipe and as it is dragged through the old pipe, the bursting head breaks up the old sewer line.  The pieces of the old sewer line are left in place around the new pipe.

A hole needs to be dug at each end of the sewer line, but the rest of your yard can usually be left undisturbed.  One exception is that a hole will need to be dug at any bends or turns in the sewer pipe.  Pipe bursting only works in a straight line so if you have any turns or bends in your sewer lateral, a separate pipe will need to be installed in each straight leg and a connection made at the bend.

Pipe lining is another option for repairing a sewer line without extensive digging.  A soft flexible tube coated with cement is pulled through the existing pipe and inflated so that it presses against and adheres to the walls of the old sewer pipe.  The tube hardens in place and creates a lining inside your existing sewer lateral.

Your plumber or sewer-septic contractor can help you decide which sewer line replacement option is best for you.

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Tree Roots In Your Sewer Line

August 2nd, 2012 Posted in Sewer Lines
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Tree root infiltration is one of the most common causes of sewer line clogs.  Many older sewer lines are made from clay or cast iron pipe that comes in three to four foot sections.  One end of each section of pipe is a little bigger to allow it to fit on the end of the next section of pipe. The joints where these pipe sections are fitted together can leak if they were not installed properly or if the ground has shifted around the pipe.

Tree roots are naturally attracted to the moisture at the leak and tiny roots will infiltrate the gap in the joint.  Tree root infiltration causes two problem, neither one of which is good.  First, the tree roots will soon form a ball of roots inside the sewer line that will collect paper, grease, oil and other debris and form a clog that is difficult to remove.

Your plumber or sewer septic contractor can clear the clog with an auger or using hydro-jetting, but the tree roots will soon grow back and another clog will form. Even worse, as the tree roots grow, they will force the joint apart and turn the small leak into a big leak.  Eventually, the roots can get large enough to cause the pipe to break.

Talk to your plumber about your options for dealing with tree roots in your sewer line.  It may be worth the expense of inspecting the inside of your sewer line with a video camera to see exactly how much damage there is.

Your plumber may be able to chemically treat the roots to slow or halt the growth. Chemical root treatment will need to be applied annually to prevent new root growth.  Another option is to have a liner installed inside the sewer line to prevent root intrusion.  If the damage is too severe, your only option may be to replace the damaged section of pipe with PVC pipe.

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Septic To Sewer Costs

August 2nd, 2012 Posted in Sewer-Septic Service and Installation
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If you are one of those fortunate homeowners who has the option of converting from a septic system to a sewer connection, be sure to carefully balance the costs against the benefits to see if a septic to sewer conversion is right for you.  The total cost of converting to sewer varies widely depending on your situation, but it can range from$5,000 to $10,000 to complete the job.

First, the new sewer line has to be installed. This involves digging a trench from your home to the municipal sewer line, compacting the soil, and installing the new sewer lateral.  In many cases, installing the sewer lateral is pretty straightforward, but in some cases the sewer lateral will need to be routed under sidewalks, driveways, and patios.  In addition, it can be a little more complicated if the septic system was located in the back of the house because most sewer mains are in front of the house.

Another component that should be factored in is the fee for connecting to the sewer. These fees vary widely, but are commonly between $2,000 and $5,000.  Sometimes the hookup fee is waived or reduced for existing homes that hook up within a year or two of the sewer extension.

Finally, your old septic system will need to be closed.  The septic tank should be pumped, then the lid to the septic tank will be crushed and dropped into the tank.  The septic tank will then be filled with soil.  Abandoning your septic system should cost around $1,000.

 

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Sewer or Septic System Inspections For Home Sellers

August 2nd, 2012 Posted in Septic Tank Inspections
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If you are trying to sell a home in today’s depressed housing market, you know how hard it can be just to get a potential buyer in the door.  Having a sewer or septic system inspection done before the first potential buyer arrives is an excellent way to give your home an edge over similar homes on the market.

With so many homes on the market, buyers are looking for any reason to eliminate homes from consideration and narrow down the list.  Don’t let any uncertainty about your sewer line or your septic system be a reason for potential buyers to move on to the next house.  Repairs to sewer lines and septic systems can cost thousands of dollars and a dodgy septic system or sewer line can make a buyer lose interest in your home.

If you have a septic system, have the septic tank pumped and thoroughly inspected.  Ask for a septic tank inspection that includes a video camera inspection of the inside of your pipes and a written report on the condition of the septic tank and septic field.  If your home is connected to the municipal sewer system, have a video inspection done of the sewer lateral.

If there are any problems, have them corrected before the report is prepared. When a prospective buyer appears, provide them with a copy of the video and any written reports on the sewer line or septic system.  Providing the buyer with evidence of a healthy septic system or sewer lateral can help give buyers the incentive they need to make a good offer on your home.

 

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