No-Dig Sewer Line Repair

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Sewer Lines
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Damaged or broken plumbing can be a major or a minor headache, depending on the nature of your particular problem. Sometimes the source of the trouble is easy to find and sometimes you think you might as well just put in an entirely new system. Before you decide to just chuck it all and call in the backhoes and dozers, there are a few things to try.

One method of pipe repair is known as trenchless piping repair. Trenchless repair is an accepted method of repair and replacement that has come into vogue in recent years. Now, there is some digging involved, but it is minimal compared to other fixes. Entire sections of pipe don’t always need to be pulled and replaced when you go with trenchless work. Instead, once the trouble spot is pin-pointed, an epoxy is injected, which forms a mold and a type of pipe-in-pipe solution. If the break is located near a clean-out very little excavation may be involved because the epoxy can be poured through the cleanout itself.

The epoxy is strong but relatively thin so that flow is not significantly reduced, and in some cases can be injected so as to increase the pipe size. Most homeowners won’t have the equipment or technical proficiency to do this kind of work and will need to hire a pro. But, with much less disruption to the ground and little excavating, the cost effectiveness can make this a good option. Your sewer professional will be able to tell you if trenchless work is feasible or advised. And, as always, you’ll want to make sure your sewer professional is properly certified and that all work meets local codes and requirements.

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What’s My Line? (Sewer Line, That Is)

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Sewer Lines
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Oftentimes sewer line trouble occurs in the “gray” area of responsibility between what a municipality should address and what falls on the shoulders of the homeowner. It is, however, an issue that potential homeowners should be aware of before buying a home. What you’ve been used to may not be the standard for your new location.

Different cities have different definitions regarding the responsibility. Usually, but not in all cases, the city or town will maintain the lower lateral line and the main sewer line. The lateral line is the section of sewer line that runs from a building to the city main line. The lateral itself is often divided between upper and lower sections. The upper line runs from the building to the curb, and the lower lateral runs from there to the main. Some cities service only the main line, leaving you to deal with the entire lateral, even when it runs under city sidewalks.

Why are there so many discrepancies? For one thing, home construction doesn’t always coincide with the installation of city sewers. In many cases the city “grew up” around existing homes so that different technologies and materials were utilized. In other instances, housing development occurred much later than the municipal lines.

Some cities will offer to split costs of modernization if your existing lateral line is outdated or falling apart. A good local sewer professional will be able to advise you as to what needs to be done and will be able to perform the work. As a homeowner, you need to know what local policies are and what you may need to do to be compliant with municipal statutes.

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Problems with Sewer Lines – Getting to the Root of the Matter

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Sewer Lines
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If you have an unidentified stoppage in your plumbing and there doesn’t seem to be any problem emanating from inside the home, your trouble could be caused by that wonderful shade tree in the yard. Root systems can break or lift lateral sewer lines. Sometimes they may force the line downward, which is known as “bellying”. Any of these conditions can be enough to stop the plumbing works in your residence.

When your sewer line was first set the tree may have been small or non-existent, but, over time, the roots grow longer and thicker. The tree might even be one that is growing in your neighbor’s yard. So, what can be done to alleviate the situation? Obviously, some digging will be involved. You may be able to locate the breakage or shift in the line easily if you spy wet spots in the yard or places where the soil has compacted, causing a depression, but that won’t always be the case. Tree roots don’t grow in straight lines, so the tree that’s causing you grief may be some distance away.

If you can find the area where the trouble is located, you can lop off part of the root system and repair or replace the damaged pipe. You’ll need to exercise care so as not to destroy the tree with your excavation. Then, after fixing the pipe, you may want to install plastic root guards to ward off future headaches.

You don’t want a yard that looks like an army of prairie dogs moved in as you try to find the source of the problem, so it could make a lot of sense to get professional help with your sewer problems right away.

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Sewer Grease Interceptors and FOG

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Grease Traps
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Do you own a restaurant, deli or other food service establishment? If so, you should know that FOG is a bad thing to have in your sewer line. FOG? Yes, FOG. In this case, however, we’re not referring to the stuff that London is known for. In plumbing terms, FOG stands for Fats, Oils and Grease. When any or all of these materials make there way into the city sewer system big problems can occur.

There are different methods that have been employed to minimize the occurrence of FOG. Chemical emulsifiers, enzymes, bacteria or a combination of these additives can be utilized to get the FOG out of your place of business, but there are reasons that none of these methods provide a truly viable solution. Although emulsification and related processes can chemically alter the FOG, the components can simply reform once they have entered the city system. Many towns and cities have banned their use altogether and, instead, require the use of proper grease interceptors.

Grease interceptors are devices that are installed between kitchen drain lines and sanitary sewer lines to capture FOG that comes from food preparation, dish-washing and the cleaning of fixtures in the kitchen. These interceptors are not to be confused with the small grease traps present in many residential systems. Two types of commercial interceptors are commonly used and choices are made based on space available and volume generated.

The larger type is known as a GGI, or Gravity Grease Interceptor, and these are usually installed outside the building. The other, smaller, type is called an HGI, or Hydro-mechanical Grease Interceptor. Grease interceptors and grease traps need regular grease trap cleaning and maintenance in order to work properly.  Your sewer septic professional will help you to determine which type will both suit your needs and comply with local ordinances.

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Main Sewer Line Clogged?

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Sewer Lines
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If you’ve got a backup in your home plumbing and you can’t easily identify the source you may have a stoppage in the main sewer line. The clog, whether it’s caused by wadded paper flushed by your kids or a buildup of food wastes from the kitchen can work its way to the main sewer line and then stop.

What to do?

Well, if you are unsure of the source you may be tempted to start pouring all kinds of harsh chemicals into every drain you can think of, but this is likely to be counter-productive and potentially dangerous to the health of your family. If something is affecting the whole house it could be that the main line needs a bit of help. There are some things you can try yourself or you may require the services of a professional.

The first thing is to locate a clean-out, which can either be outside the home or in the basement or crawl-space. The clean-out will have a threaded cap, which will match the pipe, either metal or PVC, depending on your construction. You may also have multiple clean-outs in the lateral line depending, again, on construction and the distance to the municipal hook-up.

You’ll have to run a drain snake into the clean-out and hope you find the blockage. Then, work the snake until the blockage seems to clear, and then run water from the home into the line. It’s best to flush the system from the top or farthest line from the main. The clogged material should wash into larger city lines. If in doubt, it is always best to call for your friendly sewer professional.

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Tips for Protecting Your Septic System

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Septic Tank Pumping
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Your septic system is an important part of the waste disposal system for your home. Having it installed by a licensed professional according to local ordinances is very important. Once it is installed it is also important to protect your septic tank and drain field in or to keep them functioning properly.

A septic system is made up of two parts: the septic tank where wastewater from the home is initially piped to from the home plumbing system and the drain field which is beyond the tank. Both the tank and the drain field have vulnerabilities that need to be protected to keep them operational.

You should have the septic system inspected by a sewer septic professional every two to three years.  The septic tank needs to be pumped periodically and your inspector will let you know if your septic tank is due for septic tank pumping.

For the septic tank to work properly it requires a certain amount of bacteria. The bacteria is necessary to help breakdown the solid wastes. Too much bleach or anti-bacterial cleaners being used and flushed into the septic tank at once can destroy that bacteria and hinder the function of the septic tank.

Too much wastewater all at once can also be a problem. Spreading out your laundry loads, showers and dishwasher use can be very beneficial to your septic system. Fixing water leaks from toilets and other plumbing fixtures is also an important part of protecting your septic system from water overload.

Too much traffic or weight over the drain field could potentially damage the drain field. Pipes can be crushed. You also do not want to have trees planted or growing too close to the drain field, as tree roots can clog the drain field. Tree roots can also damage sewer pipe leading from the home to the septic tank.

Septic systems can last for decades without any problems, if they are properly protected and maintained.

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Understanding the Different Types of Drain Fields

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Drain Field
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Not all septic systems use the same types of drain fields. The soil composition in the area used for the drain field is one of the major factors in determining the type of drain field used with a septic system. Below is a list of the different types of drain fields that might be installed for a septic system.

Conventional System
The conventional drain field is constructed by digging trenches that fork out from the distribution box. A perforated drainpipe is laid in the trenches and the trenches are filled with gravel. A barrier is placed over the gravel prior to placing the topsoil over the trenches. This keeps the soil from sifting down into the gravel and impeding the water flow. 

Drip or Low Pressure Pipe System
This system uses small, perforated tubing that is located very close to the ground surface. The wastewater flow is controlled with periods of rest so as not to oversaturate the soil. The wastewater is dispersed through feeding the root systems of the grass growing over the drain field and through evaporation. 

Spray System
A spray type drain field is one that actually sprays water out over the ground surface through sprinkler heads. These systems involve a series of treatment tanks that the effluent is processed through before reaching the spray heads. 

Sand Mound System
The mound system is often used when the soil conditions or water table do not allow for a conventional drain field. In this drain field there is a ‘dosing’ tank between the septic tank and the mound system. The dosing tank distributes the wastewater into the sand mound at timed intervals. 

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Considerations for Mound Septic Systems

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Drain Field
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Raised sand mound drainage systems are sometimes required when the soil conditions are not adequate for a conventional gravel drain field. The mound system creates a raised area in the landscape of the home. It is natural for homeowners to attempt diminish the visual presence of the mound through landscaping efforts. There are several considerations that should be kept in mind as you plan your landscaping around this type of drainage system.

Trees or shrubs should never be planted on the mound itself. Most trees should be a minimum of 20 feet away and some that have water-seeking roots should be 50 feet or more away from the mound. Wildflowers and grasses are great choices for plant cover for a mound system. Edible plants such as vegetables should not be planted over or near your mound system.

Although you want minimal traffic on a mound system, mowing the grass planted on your mound is not only acceptable but actually beneficial for your mound system. Keeping the grass shorter allows for better evaporation.

The mound area should not be irrigated with a lawn sprinkler system. Low maintenance grasses and plants that can handle dry weather should be chosen. The mound area should also not be fertilized when you fertilize other parts of the lawn.

In summary, you can screen your mound by planting trees or shrubs at a distance, but not too close. You can plant grass or wild flowers as cover for the mound, but make sure it’s a hardy variety that can handle dry periods without extra watering.

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The Middleman in Your Septic System

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Drain Field
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There are three main components to your septic system: the septic tank, the distribution box and the drain field. Most homeowners are aware of and familiar with the function of the septic tank and the drain field; not all recognize the middle component to the system – the distribution box.

As critical as the septic tank and the drain field are to the proper function of your septic system, the distribution box is just as important. It is also the component that is most likely to fail.

The distribution box is truly the middleman in a conventional septic system. The wastewater and solid wastes from a residence flow first into the septic tank. It is in the tank the solids and effluent separate. It is also in the tank that the decomposition process begins to breakdown the solid waste.

The distribution box is located in between the septic tank and the drain field. It is positioned a bit lower than the tank but higher than the drain field. This sloped configuration allows the natural force of gravity to drain the effluent waste from the tank to the distribution box and then from the distribution box to the drain field.

Pipes that run through the trenches of the drain field have their originating point at the distribution box. The box also contains a float system that keeps the flow into the various drain field trenches evenly distributed. Distribution boxes can be made of sturdy plastic or from concrete. Just like the septic tank, the distribution box will have an access cover that is buried beneath the earth’s surface to allow maintenance should it be required.

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The All Important Septic Tank

January 31st, 2013 Posted in Septic Tank Pumping
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The size of your septic tank will vary depending on the size of your home the estimated number of inhabitants. Local regulations will dictate the size of tank required for the home based on this estimated number of inhabitants. A 1,000-gallon tank is a very common size for a standard size home.

The tank is built to be watertight and may be constructed of concrete, steel, fiberglass or plastic. The tank will also have an access cover on the top of the tank. The cover is generally buried until access is required for septic tank pumping or other maintenance issues. The tank will located several feet away from the home, as per local codes. It will also be located a proper distance from the home’s well as dictated by local health regulations.

The tank will be gravity fed through sewage lines from the house. As the waste fills the tank, the solid waste settles to the lower portion of the tank where bacteria immediately begin the decomposition process. The wastewater that has separated from the solid waste continues its journey downward through the septic system via gravity to the distribution box. From their the water is dispersed into the numerous trenches of the drain field of a conventional septic system.

The most critical purpose of the septic tank is the separation and decomposition of the solid waste. If the solid waste is not able to separate and settle to the lower part of the tank, solid waste can end up clogging the distribution box and/or drain field. The active work of bacteria in the tank to decompose the solid waste is also critical. When operating properly, bacteria can eliminate up to 90% of the solid waste that comes into the tank.

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